Summer has come and gone, though red soft fruit are still going strong in the form of wonderfully flavoured autumn raspberries. Hedgerow blackberries have been ripened by the rays of the Indian summer so are beautifully sweet too. The lack of rain this month has meant however that they are smaller than in recent years. Thirty minutes picking on a local path or byway is sufficient for a family crumble (see below).
My recent absence from these pages is not down to my abduction by aliens. X files type eerie noises and lights over the Chase may have led credence to this. A bountiful harvest has been responsible for both, harvesters working late into the nights (with spotlights and GPS systems) and the arrival of our baby daughter has kept me away from writing. It will not be long till I am getting more experience with vegetable purees.
This months recipe tip and chefs secret!
The perfect crumble
Whether it be the last of the rhubarb (getting woody now) or containing plums, blackberries, or the best in my eyes the humble apple.
It is most peoples favourite dessert.
Cut the apple irregularly and the smaller pieces break down to form the oozing sauce and the larger pieces offer that satisfying texture to get the teeth into. Do not make it over sweet, too much sugar can ruin it. Though to add depth to the flavour caramelise the sugar first(cook sugar in a heavy pan till it browns then add the fruit prior to the sugar going to black jack).
A great trick is to make the topping and the base separately, make too much of either and it is not a problem; too much apple can be used up in other desserts or for the Sunday roast pork, another reason for little sugar. Too much topping and it can be used for other crumbles or as an alternative to flat jack with the afternoon tea. Crumble mix also benefits form oats and ground nuts too, or for the really daring, ground cinnamon and some dried fruit.
Sprinkle the topping over your fruit and warm in the oven whilst eating the family roast and you will have the perfect crumble. Just add custard or ice cream.
Foodie events reviewed from last month
The most exciting event to happen in September was the annual Damerham pig race. Pigs were available to be purchased for each race and bets were taken. The highlight was of course the race commentary by the legendary Murray Walker of F1 fame. There was a distinct lack of hog roast on offer, perhaps deemed to off putting for the pedigree racers!
The Dorset food festival had a preliminary event in the form of Feast of Dorset in Wimborne, featuring leading food writers, the likes of Rose Prince, Richard Corrigan and Mark Hix. Fasinating debate occurred including the ongoing foie gras argument. Various food producers’ touted there excellent wares, a spicy venison sausage with a hint of chocolate was much to be commended. A splendid food and drink pavilion was operated by the London Based Fish Club and more locally the King John of Tollard Royal.
Sturminster Newton cheese festival was a great success this year featuring some of the countries leading cheese makers including Gold medallist Paul Thomas of Lyburn farm near Salisbury who has recently returned from the British cheese awards with a haul of 8 medals.
Thankyou to the few hundred people who supported my demonstration at the Dorset County show in the food Hall. I worked with excellent rare breed pork supplied by Rob the butcher of Cranborne Stores from the Cranborne estate.
If you missed it or want to see a repeat performance I will be at the Wimborne Food festival. So as not to miss out on this months foodie extravaganzas read on.
What’s on this month?
Local food at the Cranborne Woodfair 10th 11th October at the Larmer tree gardens
Screen bites film festival all this month
The perfect marriage between film and food. Great films featuring food, along with the chance to see one of local film maker Robert Goldens short food documentaries. Also the chance to taste great local produce. The various showings are at 12 locations around the county predominantly in village halls so you also get to do some exploring.
Dorset food Week
Around the county during the last week of the month, see local press for details.
Wimborne food festival
Is being held on the 24th and 25th October in and around Wimborne. Demonstrations are being held at the Minster Green with local chefs, including yours truly at 2.00pm on Saturday. A special Sunday roast featuring the best of Dorset produce is being offered at La Fosse at Cranborne on the Sunday.
Produce to look out for now,
Squashes and particularly crown prince pumpkins, are coming into season. A chef’s favourite trick for a great simple soup is to roast a pumpkin whole in the oven, it becomes beautifully sweet and does not dry out too much. The flesh is then very easily scooped out, added to stock, blitzed with the odd knob of butter seasoned and hay presto a velvety feast. Even better, roast the seeds and you get a nutty alternative to croutons, which are far healthier too!
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What to read about next month,
How to avoid lumpy custard and my photo shoot with the world-renowned food photographer Robert Golden.







